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The Tritone Cafe was the meeting place for many young foreign adventurers. It was a wonderful trattoria where I met many new friends. There were Swedes, Danes, Germans, and other world travelers who were in Kabul to manufacture garments or export regional carpets, tapestries, and antiques. Strangely, I met no Americans.

I traveled with these friends outside the city to wild and intriguing places they knew from previous visits. It was great to have those connections to see parts of the country outside the capital that I never would have found or known about.

Many exhilarating  jaunts were planned from Tritone, including a wild horseback ride to a small village to have tea with a tribal leader, and another to see a kite fight near Jalālābād. Another trip took us over the treacherous Salang Pass, through part of the Hindu Kush Mountains and into a vast valley for a “men only” buzkashi training game. Adventure was afoot.

In Shahr-e Naw (New Town in Kabul) I was quite surprised when visiting some of the shops to see such freedom of expression. There was a long white, western-style wedding dress and bustiers plainly displayed in one window of a tailor’s shop, and another shop had fingernail polish, make-up, and Western cosmetics. These displays showed the liberal, modern thinking that was allowed.